South America has been the biggest surprise and adventure! It’s a photographer’s dream, a sensory overload of high-altitude landscapes, colonial texture, and ancient history. When I finally touched down in September 2019, I found the conditions to be near-perfect. The weather provided that crisp, high-altitude light that makes stone ruins sing, and the atmosphere was vibrant enough to keep my camera working overtime. Deciding to finally book this trip was, without a doubt, one of the best creative adventures I’ve made.
TRAVEL & PHOTO CONDITIONS |
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| Time | September/October 2019 |
| Weather | Mixed Mountain Sun + Desert Clearness ☀☁ |
| Temperature | 10 to 32℃ |
| SERVICE & DETAILS | LINKS |
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FLIGHTS [START] INBOUND FLIGHT: Lima (Peru) Flight 1: Lima ➙ Cusco Flight 2: Cusco ➙ La Paz (Bolivia) Flight 3: La Paz ➙ Uyuni Flight 4: Calama (Chile) ➙ Santiago de Chile [END] OUTBOUND FLIGHT: Santiago de Chile |
Google Flights Kayak Kiwi Skyscanner |
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ACCOMMODATION 1 Night in Lima ➙ 1 Night in Cusco ➙ 1 Night in Aguas Calientes ➙ 2 Nights in Cusco ➙ 2 Nights in La Paz ➙ 2 Nights (Desert Tour) ➙ 2 Nights in San Pedro de Atacama ➙ 3 Nights in Santiago de Chile |
Booking.com Airbnb |
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PERU (TRAIN + MACHU PICCHU ENTRANCE TICKETS) Book trains to Machu Picchu (PeruRail or Inca Rail) and purchase your Machu Picchu entrance tickets. Tickets sell out quickly. I highly recommend booking 2–3 months in advance. |
PeruRail Recorrido Chile Tickets Bolivia Official Machu Picchu Tickets |
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BOLIVIA (BOOK YOUR 3 DAY2/2 NIGHTS TOUR) That trip starts in Uyuni, Bolivia and finish in San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) I highly recommend booking 2–3 months in advance and confirm 24-48h before the trip, so the company can pick you up from the airport |
Salty Desert Tour Operator |
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CITY TAXIS & RIDESHARE Use Uber or Cabify in major cities such as Lima, Santiago, and La Paz for safe and convenient transfers between airports, bus stations, hotels, and city attractions. |
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VISAS & BORDER CROSSINGS UK & EU Passport Holders |
Visa-Free |
14-Day South American Expedition
(3 countries: Peru - Bolivia - Chile)
Part 1: Peru 馃嚨馃嚜
Day 0: Departure
Inbound flight to Lima
Departure from London to Lima via Madrid.
Day 1: Lima, Peru
Arrival
Transfer by Taxi to the accommodation for 1 night.
City Exploration
Explore Centro Hist贸rico (馃搷MAP), the heart of colonial Lima featuring grand Spanish architecture, the stunning Plaza Mayor, and historic cathedrals.
Visit Huaca Pucllana (馃搷MAP), an impressive ancient pyramid built from millions of adobe bricks that stands in stark contrast to the modern city surrounding it.
Wander through Miraflores (馃搷MAP), a vibrant coastal district famous for its clifftop boardwalk, green parks overlooking the Pacific Ocean, and excellent dining.
Day 2: Lima to Cusco
Flight to Cusco (馃搷MAP)
Imperial Cusco Exploration
Stroll through the historic Plaza de Armas (馃搷MAP), the vibrant colonial heart of the city built over ancient Inca palaces, bordered by grand cathedrals and red-tiled arcades.
Discover Qorikancha (馃搷MAP), the most sacred Sun Temple of the Inca Empire, where mastering stonemasonry meets Spanish colonial history with a convent built directly on top of its colossal foundations.
Marvel at the massive stone fortress of Sacsayhuam谩n (馃搷MAP), perched on a hill overlooking the valley, featuring giant limestone blocks weighing over 100 tonnes fitted together with absolute precision.
Venture slightly outside the city limits to Tambomachay (馃搷MAP), an intimate archaeological site featuring a series of aqueducts, canals, and terraced waterfalls dedicated to the ancient Inca cult of water.
Day 3: Cusco to Aguas Calientes
Private Taxi Transfer
Travel from Cusco to Ollantaytambo (馃搷MAP) using Taxidatum, exploring the Sacred Valley along the way.
Stop at Zona Arqueol贸gica Moray (馃搷MAP), a unique Inca site featuring enormous, terraced agricultural depressions that created different microclimates to experiment with crops.
Visit Parque Arqueol贸gico Pisac (馃搷MAP), a spectacular hilltop citadel boasting sweeping valley views, ancient burial sites, and vast agricultural terraces that rival Machu Picchu.
Train Journey
Travel to Aguas Calientes (馃搷MAP). Accommodation for 1 night is located next to the train station and close to the bus stop.
Day 4: Machu Picchu
Bus to Machu Picchu (馃搷MAP)
Ruins Exploration
We spent almost four hours at Machu Picchu, absolutely captivated by the incredible views. The sheer beauty of the place left us completely speechless, and I honestly could not stop taking photos.
Return to Cusco
Bus to Aguas Calientes, train to Ollantaytambo, and transfer back to Cusco.
Day 5: Rainbow Mountain
Hiking Vinicunca
Hiking to Rainbow Mountain, known locally as Vinicunca, is one of the most visually spectacular adventures in the Peruvian Andes. The striking turquoise, gold, and lavender stripes are formed by weathering and mineral sediment layers that were exposed as glaciers melted. Approximately 7 kilometres round trip.
Return to Cusco
Part 2: Bolivia 馃嚙馃嚧
Day 6: La Paz, Bolivia
Flight to La Paz (馃搷MAP)
City Exploration
Witches' Market (馃搷MAP): A vibrant street market run by indigenous witch doctors, famous for traditional Andean remedies, protective amulets, and llama fetus offerings to Mother Earth.
Calle Ja茅n (馃搷MAP): The best-preserved colonial cobblestone street in La Paz, lined with brightly coloured 18th-century buildings, boutique museums, and local ghost folklore.
Mirador Killi Killi (馃搷MAP): A historic hilltop lookout offering breathtaking 360-degree panoramic views of the city canyon and the snow-capped Mount Illimani.
Coca Museum (馃搷MAP): A small museum uncovering the sacred history of the coca leaf, from its essential role in ancient indigenous rituals to its modern global impact.
Day 7: La Paz (El Alto)
Cable Car Exploration
Travel to El Alto (馃搷MAP) using the city's Mi Telef茅rico cable car network.
About Mi Telef茅rico: As the world's longest and highest urban aerial cable car system, Mi Telef茅rico functions like a high-altitude metro. It provides an efficient, scenic alternative to navigating the city's steep, traffic-congested canyon roads, offering breathtaking birds-eye views of La Paz and the Andes mountains.
Day 8: Salar de Uyuni
Flight to Uyuni (馃搷MAP)
Excursion Start
Begin a 3-day/2-night excursion with Salty Desert Adventure (booked in advance). They are located here: (馃搷MAP)The Salt Flats
We explored the Train Cemetery and Colchani village before driving out across the spectacular Uyuni salt flats. After visiting Incahuasi Island to see the giant cacti, we watched a beautiful sunset and stayed overnight in a hotel made entirely of salt.
Day 9: Desert Landscapes
High Altitude Lagoons
We travelled through the Chiguana Desert past active volcanoes and entered the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve. Here we observed flocks of flamingos in the vibrant coloured lagoons, visited the famous Stone Tree rock formation, and stayed at a remote mountain refuge. (馃搷MAP). Overnight stay in the desert.
Part 3: Chile 馃嚚馃嚤
Day 10: Leaving Bolivia / San Pedro de Atacama
Border Crossing
We woke early to witness the steaming Sol de Ma帽ana geysers at 4,850 metres above sea level. After a warming dip in the Polques Hot Springs and a glance at the brilliant Laguna Verde, we crossed the Chile border at Hito Caj贸n and arrived in San Pedro de Atacama by lunchtime. Transfer to the Chilean border.
San Pedro Exploration (馃搷MAP)
Plaza de San Pedro de Atacama (馃搷MAP): The peaceful, tree-lined main square of the town, featuring shady pepper trees, local artisan stalls, and a relaxed atmosphere perfect for people-watching.
Iglesia San Pedro (馃搷MAP): A stunning 17th-century historic church located right off the main square, constructed from traditional white adobe and featuring a unique ceiling held together by cactus wood and llama leather.
Calle Caracoles (馃搷MAP): The bustling, unpaved pedestrian main street of the town center, lined with rustic adobe buildings, vibrant tour agencies, local restaurants, and boutique shops.
Sala de Exhibici贸n Arqueol贸gica IIAM-UCN (馃搷MAP): A compact archaeological exhibition space displaying fascinating pre-Columbian artifacts, pottery, and textiles that showcase the ancient history of the Atacama region.
Day 11: Atacama
Desert Exploration
Valley of the Moon (馃搷MAP): A stunning, surreal desert expanse named for its lunar-like landscapes, featuring parched sand dunes, glittering salt crusts, and unique rock formations that turn brilliant shades of pink and orange at sunset.
El Tatio (馃搷MAP): One of the highest and largest geyser fields in the world, nestled deep in the Andes Mountains, famous for its spectacular sunrise display of erupting steam plumes and boiling thermal pools.
Laguna Cejar (馃搷MAP): A beautiful turquoise sinkhole lagoon in the heart of the Atacama Salt Flat, renowned for its extraordinarily high salt concentration that allows swimmers to float entirely effortlessly.
Piedras Rojas (馃搷MAP): A breathtaking altiplanic wonder featuring a vast expanse of striking, rust-red volcanic rocks juxtaposed against a serene, light-green saltwater lagoon and framed by sweeping mountain vistas.
Day 12: Calama to Santiago de Chile
Travel to Santiago
Two-hour bus journey to Calama Airport, followed by an evening flight to Santiago (馃搷MAP).
Day 13: Santiago de Chile
City Exploration
Plaza de Armas (馃搷MAP): The historic heart of the city, surrounded by grand neoclassical architecture including the beautiful Metropolitan Cathedral and the Central Post Office.
Cerro San Crist贸bal (馃搷MAP): A massive hill rising above the city, accessible by a vintage funicular railway, offering incredible panoramic views and featuring a landmark statue of the Virgin Mary.
Barrio Bellavista (馃搷MAP): The bohemian epicentre of Santiago, famous for its brightly coloured street art, lively restaurants, and La Chascona, the former home of poet Pablo Neruda.
Mercado Central (馃搷MAP): A bustling historical seafood market housed in a magnificent 19th century wrought iron structure, perfect for tasting traditional Chilean dishes.
Day 14: Day Trip to Valpara铆so from Santiago
Valpara铆so Trip by local bus (馃搷MAP)
Day trip to the seaside city to explore its colourful streets and graffiti.
Day 15: End of the Trip
Return to London
Departure flight home.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE SURVIVAL & LOGISTICS GUIDE
Essential Ground Data for Travel & Photography Planning
Before packing camera bags and heading out, navigating this remote section of South America smoothly requires tactical preparation. The infrastructure crosses three distinct nations, meaning border protocols and money rules change rapidly. Below is the essential, practical information needed to turn an ambitious photography trip into a seamless journey.
1. Money, Payments, & Tipping
Each country across this high altitude loop operates on its own currency, requiring independent cash management strategies.
- The Reality for Foreigners: Modern establishments in Cusco and San Pedro de Atacama accept credit cards readily, but cash is completely mandatory for park entry fees, Bolivian rural checkpoints, and small artisanal markets.
- The Solution: Carry crisp, unmarked US Dollar bills, as they are widely exchanged across all three nations. Keep independent reserves of Peruvian Soles, Bolivian Bolivianos, and Chilean Pesos. For general expenses in major towns, use pre-paid travel cards to withdraw local cash from secure bank ATMs, ensuring you decline the local machine dynamic currency conversion to protect your exchange rates.
- Tipping Practices: Tipping is appreciated but remains modest. Aim for 10% in sit-down establishments, and allocate roughly 10 to 15 US Dollars per day for specialized 4x4 drivers who manage the demanding desert terrain.
2. Transit Between Cities & Borders
Navigating the immense distances across Peru, Bolivia, and Chile requires booking diverse transport modes well ahead of departure.
- The Photographer's Choice (The 4x4 Expedition): Connecting the salt flats of Bolivia to the deserts of Chile is best achieved via an organized three day 4x4 tour. These rugged vehicles carry your heavy gear, provide necessary fuel and water reserves, and manage the complex border procedures smoothly.
- High Altitude Rail: For the journey to Machu Picchu, reserve your train seats weeks in advance. Space for oversized camera bags is limited, so pack a compact daypack for this specific segment.
- Intra-City Commuting: Use official radio taxis arranged by your hotel desk, or utilize verified ride applications where available in major cities to maintain GPS safety tracking and avoid spontaneous fare inflation.
3. Connectivity & Mobile Setup
Maintaining access to maps, weather tracking, and altitude data is vital when moving through isolated desert landscapes.
Purchasing a regional South American eSIM prior to arrival is the most seamless method for data. If your phone requires a physical card, prioritize buying a local SIM from major networks like Claro in Peru, Entel in Bolivia, or Entel in Chile at your primary transit hubs.
Having reliable mobile data is mandatory for downloading train tickets, booking rides via apps, translating signs, and navigating ancient alleyways.
The best option is purchasing an eSIM (such as Airalo) prior to arrival. Download Airalo app. Get GBP £2.50 off your first eSIM purchase with Airalo. Use code KAMIL9100 when you sign up or at checkout. https://airalo.go.link/6HJXX Pursche Local Unlimited package for Latin America.
4. Monument Rules & Cultural Etiquette
Photographing historic communities and delicate ecosystems requires deep respect and strict adherence to local laws.
Securing Entry Permits
Do not expect to buy tickets on arrival for high profile sites. Machu Picchu passes and circuit time slots must be secured online months in advance via the official government portal. Similarly, specific Chilean desert reserves require pre-purchased digital vouchers to control visitor numbers.
Gear Restrictions
National parks across Peru and Chile strictly ban the use of drones unless specialized, expensive commercial permits are acquired weeks beforehand. Tripods are frequently restricted on the narrow walkways of Machu Picchu to keep foot traffic flowing smoothly, so prepare to shoot handheld using fast shutter speeds.
Cultural Protocol & High Altitude Safety
Always ask permission before taking portraits of indigenous citizens wearing traditional attire. Acclimatise slowly to prevent serious altitude sickness. Drink extensive amounts of water, avoid heavy meals during your first few days, and keep medication like acetazolamide easily accessible in your camera bag.
5. Gear Protection & Packing Essentials
The high Andean plains present beautiful light but incredibly punishing conditions for sensitive electronic equipment.
- Dust Mitigation: Fine salt and desert dust will penetrate unsecured gear. Use sealed dry bags inside your backpack, carry a manual air blower, and avoid changing lenses while exposed to open desert winds.
- Temperature Strategy: Sub zero desert nights will drain lithium ion batteries rapidly. Store your camera batteries inside your inner clothing pockets close to your body heat when shooting night timelapses.
Quick-Reference Travel Checklist
| Category | Action Item & Protocol |
|---|---|
| Water Safety | Never drink local tap water. Stick exclusively to sealed bottled water or purification tablets throughout the high altitude circuit. |
| Permit Window | Secure your Machu Picchu admission tickets and train passes 3 to 6 months before your travel date. |
| Border Cash | Keep crisp, undamaged US Dollar notes readily available for local country entry taxes and rural community fees. |
| Gear Protection | Pack an explicit cleaning kit consisting of a blower and microfibre cloths to combat fine salt crust accumulation. |
A Photographer's Guide to Peru, Bolivia, & Chile
This journey through the heart of the Andes is a visual odyssey of imperial history, geological wonders, and raw, remote beauty. Here is how I approached capturing the key highlights:
PERU: THE HEART OF THE INCAS
Cusco: The Imperial City
- Cusco City Centre: Focus on the juxtaposition of intricate Incan stone foundations topped with ornate Spanish colonial architecture.
- Ollantaytambo: A masterclass in living history; the narrow stone streets and ancient terraces are perfect for capturing the rhythm of local life against a backdrop of imposing mountains.
Machu Picchu: The Lost City
- The Citadel: The ultimate sunrise location. Capture the shift from cool pre-dawn blues to the ethereal, warm radiance of the morning light hitting the granite structures.
Rainbow Mountains (Vinicunca)
- The Mineral Strata: Utilise a polariser to enhance the deep, saturated colours of the geological stripes against the dramatic, high-altitude sky.
BOLIVIA: LANDSCAPES OF ANOTHER WORLD
La Paz: The City in the Clouds
- El Alto (via Cable Car): Use this for a unique, high-angle perspective of the city sprawling into the valley.
- The Witches' Market & Calle Jaen: Excellent for street photography, capturing the mystical culture and preserved colonial character of the city.
Uyuni to Atacama (The Excursion)
- Laguna Colorada & The Salt Flats: This is raw nature at its finest. Focus on the interplay of texture, from cracked salt patterns to the vivid, mineral-rich waters, and the vast, empty horizons.
CHILE: THE ATACAMA & BEYOND
San Pedro de Atacama
- Valle de la Luna: The ultimate location for "alien" landscape photography. Capture the interplay of light and shadow on the jagged, salt-encrusted terrain during the golden hour.
- Stargazing: With some of the clearest skies on the planet, this is a prime opportunity for long-exposure night photography.
Santiago & Valparaiso
- Valparaiso: A playground for street photography and colour. Focus on the vibrant, hillside houses and the gritty, artistic street art that defines this coastal city.
This 15-day itinerary is designed to maximise your time in the best light. Pack light, keep your gear accessible for those transition moments between varied altitudes and climates, and always aim for the golden hours.
Quick Trip Overview
- Days 1 to 5: Lima, Cusco, Ollantaytambo, and the iconic Machu Picchu.
- Days 6 to 7: The Rainbow Mountains and the high-altitude bustle of La Paz.
- Days 8 to 10: An immersive 3-day excursion through the salt flats and lagoons from Uyuni into Chile.
- Days 11 to 15: Exploring the arid beauty of San Pedro de Atacama followed by the cultural urban centres of Santiago and Valparaiso.